Giovana Bianco and Pino Valente, site specific installation,
Museo Madre contemporary art museum, Naples, 2015
For a Neapolitan work to begin with the words “It’s sunny!
Oh, it’s sunny!” is pretty much a guarantee that a leveling blow waits just around
the corner. Anna Maria Ortese’s powerful 1953 book, Il mare non bagna Napoli
- The Sea Doesn’t Bathe Naples, or as translated in substantially modified form
in a hard-to-find 1955 English edition by Frances Frenaye, The Bay is Not
Naples - delivers numerous knock-out punches, revealing a different side of
the author than that displayed in The Iguana. Ill-equipped for the
Italian original, I made do with Frenaye’s edition, which contains eight
pieces, three added by the translator, who also subtracts a sizable chunk of the
longest of Ortese’s themes. As the book is so difficult to obtain in English,
I’ll be less restrained than usual in providing details.
Il mare non bagna Napoli – which saw the light of day
thanks to the enthusiastic efforts of Elio Vittorini and Italo Calvino - offers
devastating critiques of the city. In a style that marks much post-war Neapolitan
writing (and echoes the blend of fact and fancy of Curzio Malaparte’s portrait
of 1944 Naples in The Skin), Ortese combines journalism with fiction to
get at Naples’ inexorable social problems. Along the way, she takes to task her
fellow Neapolitan writers for having rejected the “blue sky” writing of an
earlier generation only to “replace it with an art apparently rooted in arid
desperation.” This last phrase, articulated in the “The Silence of Reason,” the
excerpt from the long piece truncated by Frenaye, both characterizes the
prevailing Neapolitan style and points up Ortese’s rejection of its lack of
determination to fight back. In the book’s pointed views of both Naples and those
who wrote about it, Il mare non bagna Napoli struck the city’s readers -
and especially its writers - like a tsunami.
Moving progressively from a neorealist literary style to a
more journalistic one, Frenaye’s translation of Ortese’s book begins with four
pieces focused on daily life in Naples’ poorest quarters, where Ortese had
spent a good portion of her youth. The first piece, “A Pair of Glasses,” an
increasingly gritty story with a Katherine Mansfield-style attention to the
lives of children, concerns Eugenia, a young girl in a grim apartment building
whose family splurges to buy her a first pair of eyeglasses that reveal to her both
the gloriousness of the world and the undeniable misery of her immediate
surroundings. “The Sea and Naples” continues Ortese’s depiction of this squalid
neighborhood, reaching a tragic nadir with the death of a baby by “an accidental fall” from a window after
her father “by sheer chance struck the
baby” while beating the child’s mother (the lancing italics are Ortese’s). A
portrait of domestic life in the mold of Matilde Serao follows: “Family Scene”
delivers just what its title promises while plunging the hallowed Italian notion
of “family” into the same chilled cauldron of dry-ice dry irony to which
“sunny” has been consigned. Concluding this section of the book is a snapshot
of Neapolitan street life, “The Gold of Forcella,” depicting the rough neighborhood
named in the title and the quiet desperation with which its residents wait in a
pawn shop in the hope of redeeming some prized object for a few thousand lira.
In “A City in Spite of Itself,” Ortese takes a turn that
might seem abrupt were her goal simply to produce a series of short stories. Instead,
this piece is riveting journalism as filtered through a fiction-writer’s eye,
an exploration of the vast Granili III-IV apartment block, a converted military
building on Naples’ outskirts that, at the time of Ortese’s visit, housed some
3,000 people packed 20-25 to a room. Ortese here digs deeply into the
wretchedness of life among Naples’ poor after the war, many living in
conditions as bad or worse than they suffered during the occupation and
bombing. Simultaenously, the story presents an unforgettable portrait of the determined
“matriarch” of the building, Signora Antonia Lo Savio. Ortese’s account of her initial
meeting of Lo Savio demonstrates the author’s remarkable hybrid style, in which
it’s easy to see how a surrealistic element might emerge in later works:
A woman swollen up like a dying
bird, with black hair hanging over the hump on her back and a lemon-yellow face
dominated by a big pointed nose, which came down all the way to a harelip,
stood brandishing a comb in front of a jagged mirror, while she held a bunch of
hairpins in her mouth. ‘Just a minute,’ she said when she saw me, and she even
smiled…She must have been the offspring of hideously diseased parents, and yet
there was something regal in the way she walked and talked. And there was
something more, a bright light in her mouse-like eyes, which revealed not only
her consciousness of evil in all its ramifactions [sic], but also a very human zest in combatting it.
That someone makes an effort to provide essential services
in this inhuman inferno only marginally eases the grimness of Ortese’s essay,
as evident in her account of the youngest denizens of the apartment block:
There was nothing childlike about
these children except their age. They were little men and women, already
acquainted with everything, with the beginning of life and its end, already
eroded by poverty, idleness and vice, burdened with sickly bodies and twisted
minds, wearing imbecile or corrupt smiles on their faces, artful and at the
same time acting with a desolate indifference. Ninety percent of them, Antonia
told me, are tubercular or susceptible to tuberculosis, that is when they are
not rachitic or tainted with syphilis from their fathers and mothers. They are
accustomed to witnessing their parents’ intercourse and the imitation of it is
their favourite game, indeed almost the only one they have except for throwing
stones.
These are the children “lucky” enough to survive. In a scene
scoured of all sentimentality, Ortese describes rushing out with Lo Savio to
where a young boy has fallen dead while at play with his friends. Neighbors
gather: “Now they were taking him to the Morgue for examination,
and parents and friends had turned the occasion into a sort of funeral, the
simplest funeral I had ever seen. The dead boy wasn’t in a coffin but in the
arms of his mother, a yellowish woman who looked half like a fox and half like
a dustbin.”
Ortese’s lengthy interrogation of her fellow writers in “The
Silence of Reason” provides an invaluable glimpse into the Neapolitan literati
of her time – though not a particularly flattering one. It’s a shame that this
piece has been cut, as one seldom encounters a writer so sober and burningly direct
in criticizing her own circle of writers from within. Organized around a
peripatetic series of home visits with Luigi Compagnone, Domenico Rea, Raffaele
La Capria and, presumably, others mentioned at the essay’s beginning (Frenaye
omits more than half of the piece), “The Silence of Reason” accelerates the
decline in the sunny optimism about the city that began with Eugenia’s
anticipation of new glasses as well as in whatever self-restraint Ortese has
had up to this point. Her comments on Naples turn acidic, describing its
writers as no more than anyone around them representative of:
the
true Naples, all bright colours and heedlessness, and of the tradition of her
ancient past – they were all a part of the current of troubled youth that ran
beneath the great pile of antiquity…The city around them was what we all know:
a larva stream of dollars and pus. Americans had stepped into the shoes of the
Bourbons, and the syllables ‘O.K.’ were enough to cause every heart between
Vicaria and Posilippo to tremble…
But Ortese’s most vitriolic condemnation appears in the
final two pieces. The first of these recounts the pain of her return to Naples
after a long absence to encounter only the ravages of age, dementia, and the
daily wear and tear of the city on old friends. Still, Ortese manages to cull
some slight romantic affection for Naples out of the blue sea and warm air,
enough to push her into the book’s final piece, “A Strange Apparition.” Here
she challenges the virus with which even she is infected, the sentimentality that can
see “a truly exceptional city…a marvelous confusion,” only later awakening one to “the real horror, stemming from the destruction of thought itself.” As though
echoing Jean-Noël Schifano’s characterization of Naples as a city run by
passion, Ortese goes Schifano one further by limning “this extraordinary being,
Passion,”
…as
widespread as poverty, as agreeable as indolence, as dangerous as rhetoric or
vice, and yet able at times to provide some consolation, and almost as lightfooted
and superficial as the moon. It was to this fatuous and pernicious creature,
perpetually appearing and disappearing, present everywhere and nowhere, whose
name was never pronounced simply because its power was written on every side,
that the City, amputated of its last vestige of thoughtfulness and indeed any
semblance of mental systemization, owed its morbid and hallucinating beauty…All
around lay the mad City, with children and dogs poking about in the garbage
that littered its streets, with broken-down houses on either side, shattered
lamp-posts, abandoned vehicles without wheels, fragments of champagne bottles,
and everywhere masses of dead men’s skulls and bones. And the truly grotesque
thing was this: that when the terrible First Citizen of the City passed by, these
skeletons, which should normally have been weary unto death, came to life and
danced in the streets; ancient jawbones shook with laughter and tears gushed
out of cavernous sockets…So it was that the place knew no peace.
It seems unjust that Ortese’s book has yet to be translated
in full and that the one existing translation is nearly impossible to obtain.
The book clearly still serves as an important reference for contemporary
writers and artists from Italy’s south. Sicilian writer Roberto Alajmo, in his amusing 2005
“anti-travelogue,” Palermo, even borrows Ortese’s title for that of a
chapter in his own book (substituting Palermo for Naples), and if not already
apparent to readers familiar with Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan quartet, Ortese’s
book is an undeniably significant influence. Given the fever currently attaching to Ferrante’s volumes,
a reissue of Ortese’s book should be a priority. Besides provoking a sobering
realization that little seems to have changed in the lives of Naples’ poor
over the past 60 years, Il mare non bagna Napoli gives an essential
glimpse into the origins of Ferrante’s work. The first two stories of Il
mare non bagna Naples are so close in atmosphere and subject to Ferrante’s
books that they might even be mistaken for discarded drafts. The characters inhabit
a similar courtyard apartment building, endure the same entrenched atmosphere
of violence and neglect, bear Neapolitan names identical to some in Ferrante (including
“Lina” and “Nunziata”), and even include, in a central, galvanizing scene, a
mother devastated by the loss of her child, her “reddened fingers stuck into
her hair as if to claw the brain below.” Ferrante’s work pays homage to
Ortese’s overarching tone of indignation, particularly when directed at the
suffering in what Ortese in one scene refers to as “the eternal story of the
mothers, wives and daughters of the human race.” However similar their aims, though, these writers differ significantly: in thematic and temporal scope, certainly, and not least
in Ortese’s splendid, strange language compared to Ferrante’s galloping, workhorse
sentences. Nonetheless, readers of the latter writer should find Ortese’s book
a mesmerizing companion to Ferrante’s Neapolitan project, as well as a daring work of both
social criticism and narrative inventiveness that stands, toweringly, on its
own.
For much of the background on Il mare non bagna Napoli, I am indebted to Professor Lucia Re's long and fascinating article on the book's history, themes and reception.